Ice Climbing in the Kiruna area,
Lapland, Northern Sweden

During northern Sweden's long winter there is a keen group of climbers in K3 (Kiruna klätterklubb - Kiruna Climbing Club) who devote themselves to ice climbing in the parts of Sweden and Norway that are within reach of Kiruna, Lapland. The main areas are:
* short routes (up to 3 pitches long) beside the E10 highway between Torneträsk (50 km west of Kiruna) and Narvik and Bjerkvik (in Norway). * longer routes (up to 7 pitches) at Stora Sjöfallet (south of Gällivare/Malmberget), and in Spansdalen, Lavangen (an hour north of Narvik in Norway). For a more up-to-date guide in pdf-format, click here (9 MB pdf-file), updated 2014-03-15.
WEST OF KIRUNA TORNETRÄSK: The station of Torneträsk lies 50 kilometres west of Kiruna beside the E10 highway, where the road meets the lake of the same name.  There is a frozen waterfall, Falska blondiner (Peroxide blondes) which forms in the early winter a couple of kilometres past the turn-off to the station, below a radio mast.  This provides a 120-metre route with a short steep start, a long easy-angled middle section, and about 30 metres of 75 degree ice at the top.  Later in the winter the climb is usually out of condition, as much of the lower part of the waterfall is buried in snow, and a large cornice forms at the top.  The usual descent is to the left from the top of the climb. Approach: c. 45 mins. Descent about the same. The Torneträsk waterfall is on the right, just left of the mast on the skyline (photo: Rick McGregor) KAISEPAKTE: 70 kilometres from Kiruna above the E10 highway is the formidable cliff line of Kaisepakte, overlooking the large lake of Torneträsk. The best approach is straight up from below the main waterfall following a slight ridge which avoids the sometimes avalanche-prone snow-slopes on either side. The approach takes 60-90 minutes. Ice conditions on Kaisepakte are often difficult, especially in the middle of winter (probably because the fall is north-facing and never gets any sun), but are often better in the spring when the temperatures begin to increase. * A broad waterfall forms in the middle of the cliff early in the winter, and stays there until late in the spring.  It provides two pitches of steep ice climbing, with some vertical sections. There is an enjoyable route which follows the lefthand edge of the waterfall. To descend, either abseil or traverse right along the edge of the escarpment until it is possible to descend towards the old station building.  * A couple of hundred metres to the right of the main waterfall is another broad waterfall which starts a short distance up a prominent gully. It provides about 55 metres of 80-90 degree ice up to where the angle eases. Descend by abseil, or continue more easily (?) to the top. First recorded ascent: Rick McGregor and Anders Hedefalk, 26 November 2000. * Near the righthand end of the escarpment is a smaller waterfall (above the railway station). This provides a steep pitch of ice climbing and a pitch of rock to finish. First ascent: Peter Öhman and Kevin Edwards, c. 2000. Descend to the right. * At the far righthand end of the escarpment, about 60-90 mins walk from the railway station, is a new area with about 8 routes (50-90m): The Hidden Valley (Gömda dalen). Photos Photo: Kaisepakte in mid-June LILLPAKTE: Lillpakte is the local climbers' unofficial name for the smaller cliff above the E10 some 5 kilometres beyond Kaisepakte.  It is so named because it looks like a miniature version of the latter feature.  From a parking area beside the road the approach up through birch forest and block terrain (best avoided by going up either left or right of the waterfall) takes about an hour.  The waterfall is clearly visible from below, dividing into two main columns, with a roof draped with icicles between.  The right hand column provides about 25 metres of steep climbing, and then, if one chooses to climb off the top, a pitch of snow climbing.  The left hand column is longer, and can be done in one long pitch, or two shorter ones.  The descent is by abseil or to the left from the top (take care in avalanche conditions). STORDALEN: There are long, low-angled ice slopes and steeper, shorter routes at Stordalen, about 80 km west of Kiruna or 10 km east of Abisko. The steeper routes are at the righthand end of a 25 m high cliff-line, and do not always form. ABISKO: Abisko is a tourist resort 100 km (about an hour) west of Kiruna beside the E10 highway which leads to Narvik in Norway. Rihtanjira is the steep stream that descends to the left of the chairlift just west of Abisko Turist. Early in the winter it makes for a long alpine climb with a short steep pitch early on and a longer one at the top. There are other short steps which can often be avoided. Later in the season this stream becomes very avalanche-prone, so use your discretion. Approach: drive or walk to the lift station and then contour to the left across to the stream. Descent: follow the chairlift down, with a detour to the west to avoid a cliff that the chairlift goes over near the top. Approaching the top section of Rihtanjira (photo: Rick McGregor)
	Left: Abiskojokken (climber: Peter Öhman, photo: Rick McGregor) There are two areas near Abisko which provide a number of short training climbs: • In the Abisko canyon below the bridge (Jokken), and • on a roadside cutting a couple of kilometres towards Björkliden (Kurvan).
Abisko Canyon (Abiskojokken): To find the ice climbing in the canyon, drive to the bridge over the Abisko stream (outside Abisko Turiststation).  A fixed rope leads down to the stream, a short distance to the true right (looking downstream) of the bridge. *    The first waterfall which freezes at the start of the winter is between the fixed rope and the stream, and gives a 15 metre climb on 70 degree ice (picture on left).  A mixed route just left of this waterfall has also been top roped. *    Later in the winter (towards Christmas) it is possible to cross the stream on a shelf of ice below the tunnel that the stream flows through.  A broad waterfall 20 metres left of the stream gives a 15 metre climb, steep at the bottom, lower angled near the top (a final snow slope leads up to a large leaning tree which provides the anchor) (picture on right).  It is also possible (usually done on a top rope!), to climb the left hand side of the waterfall, and pull out from behind a curtain of icicles onto an 85 or 90 degree headwall at the top left of the waterfall. *    Later still, a slim vertical pillar forms between the stream and the broad waterfall, and gives a good 10 metre climb which can be led in the right conditions. Right: Abiskojokken (climber: Peter Öhman, photo: Rick McGregor)
"Kurvan"/The Bend, Abisko, with Lapporten in the background (climber: Tomas Mikusi)

"Kurvan" (The Bend/The Road Cutting):

Drive a couple of kilometres past Abisko Tourist Station towards Björkliden. The road cuts through a point just after a section of road which is marked off as an area of avalanche danger. On the left, right beside the road, are a number of 80-90 degree ice columns on a hundred metre long and up to10 metre high cliff. For a guide (in Swedish) to the bolted mixed climbs on this wall see Kurvan

Parking is a bit of a problem. The safest option is to continue to a side road 400 metres further towards Björkliden.

There are two main waterfalls on Njulla, on the cliffline up the hillside above and north of Kurvan (just north of Abisko).  The routes are about 30 metres long, and generally not too steep.  Take extreme care with the approach, as the slope is very avalanche prone (there has been a fatality here). The usual approach is from the western end of the Njulla railway tunnel.


Njulla, Abisko

There are a number of excellent one- and two-pitch waterfalls on the steep mountainside of Loktatcohkka, above the old railway station Björkstugan, about 15 km west of Björkliden.

Lokta (photos: Peter Engström) "The Big Blue" on the left, with an easier grey waterfall at the far left of the picture. Descend by abseil or walk down the gully to the left. The lefthand picture below shows a broad waterfall above where the road is closest in under the mountainside. The snowfield above it leads up to another, steep, waterfall. The righthand picture below shows the waterfall furthest right of those in this area. Descend by abseil or climb up and left and then descend a gully (which can be avalanche-prone).

Oktoberfest


Oktoberfest with the route marked (photo: Dick Johansson).
Click on the picture for a larger version.

Oktoberfest (ca 8 pitches) is a long route which climbs the centre of the lefthand half of the mountainside, with 2 pitches followed by lower-angled slopes for ca 100m, then 4 more steeper pitches to finish. First ascent (?): Calle-Peter Engström, Lasse Jakobsson, Dick Johansson and Rick McGregor, 26 October 2003. This ascent did not climb the steep final pillar.
The approach took 30 mins and the descent (to the right at the top then down the gully to the left of The Big Blue) about an hour.
Warning: this route and others on this part of the mountain are probably dangerously avalanche-prone later in the season. Early winter is probably the safest time for them, despite the thinner ice.

NORTHERN NORWAY

The Kalix Wall (Kalixväggen) is the local name for an area a few kilometres east of the T-junction where the E10 highway meets the E6 halfway between Narvik and Bjerkvik (Narvik climbers call it Kvitbergan/The White Cliff). The routes are right beside the road, and the area is easily recognised by a high cliff of light-coloured rock, usually with a large icicle hanging down towards a broad ledge at half height. There are two other routes further left which provide some 25 metres each of climbing, one up through the forest, the other in an obvious gully. Abseil from trees.

Anders Hedefalk topropes the icicle on Kalix Wall (photo: Rick McGregor)

About a kilometre north of the T-junction where the E10 meets the E6 is a small road that leads up into a hidden valley (Elvekrokdalen) above the signposted power station of Traeldal. Park halfway between the turn-off and the T-junction at a gravel pit, and walk up the forest road and continue up the valley for about half an hour. The first waterfall one encounters wends its way down a gully ca 200 m left of the main waterfall and provides a few pitches of varied ice climbing (abseil back down off trees).

* The main waterfall is 60 metres high and nearly as many broad, and provides two pitches of 70 to 80 degree ice. To descend, follow the cliff-top down to the left until it is possible to make a 50-metre abseil back to the base of the cliff.

Pontus C:son Brandt on the main waterfall at Elvekrokdalen, Norway (photo: Rick McGregor)

A couple of kilometres west of Bjerkvik (on the road towards Harstad) is a long series of road cuttings that provide numerous ice and mixed routes up to 20 metres high.

Spansdalen is the valley which runs down from Fossbakken (on the E6 highway 50 km north of Bjerkvik) to the Lavangen fjord at Tennevoll. Fossbakken is about 200 km from Kiruna (about 3 hours' drive - the roads are slower in Norway, especially in the winter).  The valley is an ice climbing paradise, with numerous frozen waterfalls on both sides.  They range in length from one to seven pitches long, and many of them have short approaches from the road.

*    One of the longest waterfalls is Henrikkefossen, the impressive fall on the true left near the bottom of the valley.  It begins with a broad wall of 80 degree ice which leads up for about 60 meters to a snow field.  From the top of the snow field, a section of 60 degree ice leads up over bulges and past a short section of vertical ice to where the waterfall narrows between an overhanging wall on the right, and a steep slab (with potential mixed routes) on the left.  In the upper gully a short wall of 85-90 degree ice leads up to where the fall widens again to offer a choice of exits - a steep ice pillar on the right, a narrow snow gully straight up, and steep snow and ice to the left (80-85 degrees).  (Total: c. 7 pitches)
The easiest descent is to head right (towards the fjord) from the top, until it is possible to climb down through steep birch forest back to a gravel road which runs parallel to the river on the other side from the main road.

*     On the right of Henrikkafossen is the very steep Søylefossen, first climbed by a Norwegian party in March 1992 (and reported in the Narvik newspaper Fremover in May 1993).

Hendrikkafossen, Spansdalen (photo: Rick McGregor)

 *    Also on the true left, further up the valley, is a fine 4-pitch route which looks like a smaller version of Henrikkafossen.  It too starts with a broad wall at the bottom, which steepens towards the top.  After a snow field, a section of vertical ice leads up to a groove against the cliff on the right.  Above, a series of bulges lead to the top.
It is possible to descend down a long snow gully some distance to the left (away from the fjord), but the gully should be avoided in avalanche conditions.  Where the gully turns right, either traverse out right c. 100 metres and do one 50 metre abseil from a flat ledge, or traverse left and continue diagonally down through the forest.

Harsprånget (climber: Peter Engström, photo: Rick McGregor)

Harsprånget is a dam on the Lule River between Gällivare and Jokkmokk about 200 km (2 hours) south of Kiruna and just south of the township of Porjus.  Two short but wide frozen waterfalls form in the gorge about a kilometres downstream of the dam, one on each side of the river.  They each provide less than 10 metres of steep climbing (80-85 degrees), followed by a longer low angle section.

For some information (in Swedish), see the Gällivare Climbing Club's ice climbing guide (2004): http://klatterklubben.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/storasjc3b6fallet2.pdf

The Suorva Dam area at Stora Sjöfallet provides 1-pitch routes with easy access (photo: Rick McGregor)

Stora Sjöfallet is some 3 hours' drive south of Kiruna, near the head of the Lule River.  There are numerous long ice routes, mostly on the northern side of the valley, between Suorva Dam and the Swedish Tourist Association's hut Vakkotavarestugan.

For a translation of a guide published in the Swedish Climbing Association's magazine Bergsport,with additional notes from the Gällivare Climbing Club's guide in Swedish (http://klatterklubben.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/storasjc3b6fallet2.pdf), see: Stora Sjöfallet

Greven and Grevinnan [The Count and The Countess], Stora Sjöfallet (photo: Rick McGregor)

http://isklatring.no (Ice climbing areas in Norway with links to web-based guides)