Kaisenjarga West

This area is below the imposing cliff of Kaisepakte and comprises 3 boulders near Lake Tornetr├Ąck, first developed on 26 June 2004.

Directions: Park in a layby where a gravel road leads up to the railwayline (about 2 km E. of the turn-off to Kaisepakte station). The boulders are by the lake, below the road. Two of the boulders can be seen from the carpark, one beside the lake straight down from the road, the other 200m further E., between the powerlines and the lake. Go straight down to the lake from the road to reach Diamanten (The Diamond) and Badviksblocket (Swimming Bay Block) which are about 75m apart on either side of a small inlet where the powerlines almost cross the water. Split Rock is 200m further E., about 50m inland from the lake.

Grades: the grades are very approximate, and relate to the grades used by Erik Heyman for his guide to the main area at Kaisenjarga (see his guide, in Swedish).

P6260652
S. side of Diamanten (1 problem up the centre, 5-)
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Diamanten from Badviksblocket (1 problem up into the shallow groove on this side, NE corner, on sidepulls, 3+). Project - heelhook problem with a good edge at righthand side of N, lakeside, face.
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Badviksblocket from E. From left: slab on left(3-); face just left of centre (3); arete with shallow cracks on right (4)
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Split Rock from the S. From left: blunt arete (4); face/slab on slopers (4), easy slab just left of chimney (2); short pullup on slopers just right of chimney (3+); descent route on right.
P6260664
Split Rock from the W. Right of centre, pullup to ledges at halfheight, rounded finish (4+)

P6260663
Split Rock from the N. From left: Face near left end with steep narrow ramp (5-); face just left of chimney (4+); outside of chimney (3) - alternative descent route; face right of chimney, use holds on right to reach ledge (4+)

Photos & text: Rick McGregor, rmcgregor"at"hotmail.com
Updated 2004-06-28